TVR Corrado Mirror upgrade
There was an excellent article on Pistonheads about updating the TVR Chimaera/Griff to the later style Corrado mirrors by Andy Holden (http://www.pistonheads.com/tvr/default.asp?storyId=6095) which inspired me to do the same – I hated the tripod mechansim in the early mirrors. The only additions I would make to Andys' Notes were that the bolts required were a different length on each side of the car (I got a selection from my local bolt supplier luckily) and that the screws needed shortening. The factory supplied adapters needed a lot of fettling before fitting and I suspect this 'quality' may have had something to with this. After great amounts of putty and sanding, cleaning out the threads and trial fitment It was time to paint. I decided to paint the lot, so local factors recommended a particular etch primer for the plastic, but to paint I had to get the mirrors out. I found some information on the net /home/dspencel/tvr/Corrado-Mirror/corradomirror_glass.pdf.
The mirrors were also a little tatty, so following Big Als' advice on PH, stuck them in the freezer for a day and then set about prizing the glass off. It is just about impossible to this without bending the heater element (the reason I have actually left mine disconnected). It is also worth noting that the Summit replacement mirrors do not fit into the VW cases!!! If you do wish to paint the mirrors completely it is at least necessary to pop the mirrors out. I have added some pictures at the end which show the mirror holders, and the mirror with the glass & holder removed.
The bit that most people are probably interested in is how I managed to wire them up, well here we go.
Converting the 3 wire mechanism of the early TVR Chimaera/Griff to the 4wire of the later style Corrado mirrors is pretty straightforward. On the Corrado mirror the 2 circuits (motor & clutch) simple require reversible polarity for the motor circuit to do the left/right motion. In ADDITION to that there is a reversible polarity clutch circuit for the up/down motion (note for up down motor and clutch circuits must be powered). This is simple to wire to the harness by mating the mirror M1 and C2 wires to the TVR common lead, the only tricky bit is to ensure that the mirror relay always supplies the motor circuit, rather than acting as a changeover between the 2 circuits, this is achieved by jumpering the harness at a convenient point.
Basically the relay can be jumpered at the connector block to the door panel rather than getting the relay out of the inner panel.
A short link wire across terminals (I have plenty of the crimp terminals so extracted the 2 pins & recrimped with a jumper wire) of the connector block worked great - either on the car side or outer panel side (outer may probably be easier to work on). I used a white wire to link the White/Brown and Red/Green wires which go to the relay, be sure you connect the correct wires, since this is the static position of the relay there should be connectivity between the terminals. There is some information on working with these style connectors at http://www.dspen.com/TVR/Connectors/connectors.html
The wiring on the mirrors is too short so an extension lead is required, which should go round the back (and to the front of the car) of the window channel. This is an ideal place to mate the wiring, I used 2mm spades to connect an extension lead to the mirror cabling, the other end to the standard 5 way connector, only 6" long. If you put male 2mm spades on the mirror wiring they will clear the 10mm hole in the mount & door no problem, just ensure the Blue and Brown cables are crimped onto a common terminal. I sourced correctly coloured cables, 2mm male & female blades (with insulators), PVC sheath and pins for the existing connectors, all readily available at VWP http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk .
Extension Lead Connector block ready to mate with TVR Harness. I used same colour cables as the VW mirrors (except for the common Blue & Brown – so I used Blue/Brown cable) to make disconnection / reconnection at the spade terminals simple if I ever have to remove the mirrors.
The 2mm spade terminals to link the extension lead to the mirror. The exposed cables are for the heater element, the control wires have been wrapped in tape.
The complete extension lead (this at 8” was plenty long enough, 6” would be better)
Inside the mirror, yes I know I should have filled that chip...
But I have made an experimental paint coating to see if it resists stone chips better – not sure if it will work, so ready to repaint mirrors if necessary.
The mirror backing, the 2 connections for the heater element are just visible on the right.
This shows the 4 round locators and the 8 clips each side of them which hold the mirror in place.